A review of our recent Scottish road trip (2 adults, 2 children aged 10 and 13) doing the NC500 in a VW campervan.


The NC500 had been on our bucket list for a while, and with the kind loan of a campervan from my sister-in-law, I planned a route to keep the whole family happy. The NC500 starts and finishes in Inverness, which is 500 miles from home, so we broke up the journey both ways.


We left Warwickshire after dinner on Wednesday, 9th April and drove 300 miles to Craster, Northumberland, waving at the angel of the north and wild camping for what was left of the night. After breakfast, we walked the coastal path to Dunstanburgh Castle to show our daughters the spot where we got engaged 17 years ago. We spent the morning on the sandy beach of Embleton Bay, enjoyed bacon rolls from the golf club cafe, then visited Alnwick Gardens. Personal highlights included the water features, the cherry orchard swings and the Lilidorei play park was an absolute hit with our youngest. After exploring Alnwick’s independent shops and galleries, we had dinner in a local pub before checking into the “purple palace” for showers and a well-earned sleep.


Friday was a travel-heavy day (250 miles) as we headed to Inverness. Once there, we explored Loch Ness, the Caledonian Canal and the Victorian Market in the heart of Inverness before checking into Bunchrew Campsite. We were treated to dinner outside in the sunshine and a spectacular sunset over the loch.


We decided to drive the NC500 anti-clockwise, ticking off the less scenic east coast first and saving the wow-factor west for later. We did the route in 5 days and found this enough time. 

Silhouette of Angel of the North sculpture against sunset sky
Two people standing on a sandy beach with Dunstanburgh Castle in the distance
Taking our children to our engagement spot at Dunstanburgh Castle 18 years later
Enjoying the swing in Alnwick Gardens Blossom walk
Whimsical playground castle with spiral slides and colorful turrets rises against a blue sky with wispy clouds.
Historic Greig Street Bridge crosses River Ness with St Mary's Church spire in Inverness, Scotland on sunny day.
Ruins of Urquhart Castle perched on rocky cliffs overlooking the misty waters of Loch Ness in Scotland.
Aerial view of Caledonian Canal stair locks near mountains in Scotland with residential homes and green landscape surroundings.
Looking out from inside a pop-up camper tent

DAY 1 Saturday - Inverness to Thurso, 110 miles

We left Inverness, detouring via Rogie Falls for a woodland walk and waterfall views, then headed to Dornoch, a pretty village – the Highlands’ answer to the Cotswolds! We highly recommend the lobster rolls at Surf and Turf and hot chocolate from Cocoa Mountain. After exploring the gardens of Dunrobin Castle and getting the obligatory photo at the John O’Groats signpost we headed to our second campsite Little Croft Highland Campsite. The friendly owners had pigs, goats, chickens and two of the biggest turkeys we've ever seen! It’s an exposed site in the middle of nowhere, we had to drive to Thurso for dinner and ended up booking a last-minute hotel to avoid doubling back on ourselves the next day. Dunnet Beach is gorgeous and worth a visit, we watched surfers in Thurso while enjoying fish and chips from Big Fish, Little Fish. 

Scenic waterfall, Rogie Falls cascades down rocky cliffs surrounded by lush green trees and vegetation on a sunny summer day.
Overhead view of lobster rolls on a blue wooden table.
Dunrobin Castle in Scotland with vibrant pink tulips blooming in the manicured gardens under a dramatic blue sky.
The famous John O'Groats signpost
Scenic sandy beach with turquoise waters and green coastal dunes along Scottish shoreline under blue summer skies.
A detailed map of the North Coast 500 route in Scotland showing tourist attractions and landmarks along the coastal journey.

DAY 2 SUNDAY - Thurso to Durness, 70 miles

We kicked off the day with an all-you-can-eat breakfast before heading west to Durness. This stretch of the road trip is stunning. We stopped in Bettyhill at the beach and treats from The Cake Shed. The girls loved doing the Golden Eagle zipline over Durness beach. We reached Sango Sands Campsite just in time to snag a first-come pitch. This campsite overlooks the spectacular Sango Bay. We played games, dipped toes in the sea and devoured the best toasted sandwiches from the Cheese and Toasted horsebox trailer.

Don’t miss the nearby attractions of Smoo Caves, Cape Wrath, the haunted house and Balnakeil Craft Village - a quirky, hippie community with various artists on an old army base. As for the hot chocolate at Coco Mountain? Don’t believe the hype, Dornoch’s version is better!

A scenic coastal beach with tall grass in the foreground and dramatic wispy clouds in a bright blue sky.
Heart shape drawn in wet sand on a beach with NC500
A pink wooden roadside bakery stand with 'Crumbs Cake Cupboard' sign displays various baked goods on shelves in rural hills.
A menu board mounted on a blue wall displays prices for grilled cheese sandwiches, toasties and cold drinks.
Start of zip wire over Durness beach in Scotland
A grilled cheese sandwich with melted yellow cheese and sliced onions held over a wooden picnic table.
Panoramic coastal landscape showing dramatic cliffs and turquoise waters in northern Scotland

DAY 3 Monday - Durness to Ullapool, 68 miles 

We headed south to Ullapool. Be sure to take the coastal route from Kylesku to Inchnadamph, this winding single-track road is classic NC500 and not suitable for big campervans or caravans. Highlights included Clachtoll Beach and pies from the famous Lochinver Pie Shop. In Ullapool, we enjoyed an amazing dinner at the Seafood Shack—scallops, live music, a gin bar and good vibes. We stayed just north of Ullapool at Ardmair Campsite, where we built stone towers, had a beach fire and toasted s’mores.

DAY 4 Tuesday - Ullapool to Applecross, 85 miles 

We continued heading south to Applecross. We visited Corrieshalloch Gorge (free parking for National Trust members) a gorgeous woodland walk to cross the suspension bridge over the dramatic Falls of Measach and mile long canyon. After a pitstop in Gairloch for lunch at the visitor centre and farm shop and a quick play on the beach, we continued on, spotting sleek Grand Designs-style homes and more random animal warning signs along the way. Afternoon tea at Applecross Walled Garden was a treat especially the sighting of a huge herd of Highland cows! The kids had fun making dens and playing in the treehouse. We stayed at Applecross Campsite, where the further shower block is worth the walk. There’s a great food truck onsite, Applecross has a shop, pub, petrol pump and plenty of walks where you’ll meet free-roaming deer. 

DAY 5 Applecross to Inverness 80 miles

We wrapped up the NC500 with the iconic Bealach na Bà Pass, jaw-droppingly beautiful, with a side of burnt clutch smell! Instead of returning to Inverness, we headed south via Fort William with a pit stop at the Highland Soap Company, through the dramatic Glencoe and onto Loch Lomond before skirting around Glasgow and heading south via Grenta and the M6 to the Lake District. It was a long, rainy 8-hour drive broken into three sanity-saving chunks. We ended the day with pizza and a night in a luxury apartment.


We spent two nights in Hawkshead, enjoying baths, beds, a washing machine and Lake District treats. The kids did a chocolate-making class, and we explored shops, galleries, Grizedale Forest sculptures trial and played mini golf in Ambleside.


We returned to Warwickshire for Easter lunch, having driven 1,760 miles over 10 days.


NC500 in our words:

  • Epic, breath taking scenery around every bend
  • Hidden pristine beaches you'll never want to leave
  • Rugged, winding roads built for a motorbike adventure
  • The best toasted sandwich and freshest scallops we’ve ever tasted
  • An unexpected obsession with the adorable Highland cows
  • Soaring over the beach on a thrilling zip line
  • Random warning sign i spy
  • A true bucket-list road trip we’ll never forget